…Otherness

B. Altman & Co. (American, founded 1865) Hostess Robe, ca. 1935-40 Robe of peach quilted synthetic satin printed with polychrome floral motifs and trimmed with vermillion synthetic satin; belt of braided vermillion synthetic satin Courtesy of the NYU Costume Studies MA Program Study Collection

This mid-20th century floral quilted hostess robe was purchased at B. Altman & Co., a department store that operated at 34th Street and Fifth Avenue in New York City from 1865 to 1990. It exemplifies the “at-home glamour” that allowed women to maintain elegance while entertaining guests or attending to domestic tasks. Its design reflects the era’s fascination with orientalism, evident in the hibiscus flower motif, as well as the vermillion color accent on the neckline and braided belt, known in period advertisements as "Chinese red." The quilted construction and use of synthetic fabric made these types of dresses accessible to a wide range of consumers, particularly during the economic downturn of The Great Depression (1929-1939) and the lean years of World War II (1939-1945), when insulating wool and luxurious silk were both cost prohibitive and rationed. Details such as the puffed shoulders and braided vermillion ​​belt that cinches the waist display the importance given to feminine refinement, even in private spaces.

Madeline (American, mid-20th Century) Hat, ca. 1957 Beige synthetic straw Courtesy of the NYU Costume Studies MA Program Study Collection 

This mid-20th-century woven straw hat reflects Orientalist tropes. Its conical shape and glossy synthetic material, designed to mimic natural straw, suggest an interpretation of so-called “coolie hats.” Garments and accessories labeled “coolie” drew from Asian aesthetics, repurposing cultural elements for Western audiences. The sewn-in label, Made Especially For You by Madeline, indicates that the hat was likely a custom-made piece for special occasions.